Community Discussions
Explore the latest discussions and community conversations related to this domain.
Credit for vs Credit with vs Credit to
Main Post: Hello Experts : It would be great if any body can put forward a bit detailed explanation on the 3 idioms below : Credit for Credit with Credit to PS : Mods, my apologies for not having the usual SC format . This is more a quest to clear my thoughts on the proper use of the Idiom. Please advise if I can post it any other relevant place.
Top Comment: Hello Experts : It would be great if any body can put forward a bit detailed explanation on the 3 idioms below : Credit for Credit with Credit to PS : Mods, my apologies for ...
Are there any words (synonyms) meaning 'credit to somebody'? - English Language Learners Stack Exchange
Main Post: Are there any words (synonyms) meaning 'credit to somebody'? - English Language Learners Stack Exchange
How to credit others at the end of your video?
Main Post:
Hi Everyone,
I filmed and edited an aftermoive for a conference called Creative. In the edit, I have incorporated a few lines from each speaker into the aftermovie, eventually when I am capturing my details at the end of the video, I also want to give credits to the 2 cameraman, who filmed those shots of speeches.
However, I have never done this before so I do not know the right terminology to capture the difference between what I should call my role in the filming and theirs. So I came up with the below but I am not sure if I am using the right terminology:Edit - G.. K... (me)B-roll/BTS/Interviews - G.. K.. (me)Creative Talks Camera 1 - L.. S..Creative Talks Camera 2 - M.. T..
To be honest, my main worry is that if I simply call myself camera 1 and them 2 and 3, I am afraid that I am not able to distinguish the fact that I have filmed most of the footage used in the aftermovie (this is important for a new starter like myself to get work). And a few people that saw the above credits think that they are the main camera guys who filmed the aftermovie... This is I think mainly I do not know what should I call my role, cuz as a moving camera I filmed everything except the talks; the audience, event preparation, backstage, location, food and drink breaks, interviews, etc.; basically everything that makes an after-movie, only if it does not contain the speeches.
I would really appreciate if you could please help me with your experience/ideas. Thank you for your time,
Top Comment: Crediting is complicated, and film vs classic news crew credits differ slightly. Generally you could do something like “director of photography” and list yourself then “additional photography” for additional camera op. And really you want to list as few confusing credit names as possible and keep it in the same family (for example producer and director are conflicting titles as they refer to similar roles in different veins, one classic news one more film) You can list multiple names under a role that had multiple people helping like “editors” then a few names and “animation” and a few names. But really be specific to exact roles as things like “videographer” are pretty non specific as it’s all video. Another option is “director” for you then “additional photography” for others. It’s understood you filmed primarily most of it with what is not listed while still giving credit.
credit/credits (when giving someone credit for their work) | WordReference Forums
Main Post: credit/credits (when giving someone credit for their work) | WordReference Forums
How do I build credit, and how do I get a great credit score?
Main Post:
If you couldn't tell, I'm young. 18 to be exact. I want to start building credit, and I want to have a good credit score for the future. How would I go about starting to build credit? And how would I ensure a great credit score.
If it matters: I'm in high school right now, but I do have a job. Making $8.59/hour and about 25 hours a week.
Top Comment:
Apply for a really basic/college credit card and pay off the balance every month.
r/personalfinance Wiki: Guide to Credit Building
Main Post: r/personalfinance Wiki: Guide to Credit Building
I raised my credit score from 546 to 720 in 4 months thanks to you guys.
Main Post:
Hello everyone, first let me say THANK YOU. It is thanks to you that I finally, for the first time in my life, have control of my finances and can breath easier. I wanted to share my story in the hopes that someone else who was in a similar situation as me, might benefit from my experience. I will briefly describe how I raised my Transunion and Equifax scores from the 540s to the 720s in 4 months. Something that I did not think was possible. And it was all thanks to...
That subreddit. Seriously. I followed the advice in there to the letter, and it worked like magic. Here'es a bullet pointed version of exactly what I did:
• Downloaded credit karma – saw that my score was 546 on Jan 15th (was crushed, but felt like I Was finally going to start taking control)
• Got my full credit report and list of all accounts that had gone delinquent and/or into collections.
• Called EVERY. SINGLE. ONE. First I disputed every account, and over HALF (50%) of them could not prove that the accounts were real and/or could not prove that they followed the law pertaining to the Fair Credit act, and removed the accounts from my credit report.
• In 30 days my score had gone from 546 to 620! I was elated, and more determined than ever. I felt like I was on a mission at this point.
• I applied for and was approved for a Capital One Secured Credit Card. It works like this – When your credit is so horrible that you cant get a real credit card to start boosting your credit, you get a secured card. Basically, you pay them $200 for a credit card with a $200 limit.. I put $40 on the card every month, and paid it off completely.
• I paid off all of my credit card debt.
• Of the delinquent and/or accounts that I had in collections that were NOT removed, I negotiated the debt down at every single one. I called them and basically said, “I don’t have enough money to pay my full debt, but I will give you X amount right now, (usually about half of what the debt was) to settle it and remove it from my report. They all had to get their manager’s approval, but every single one of these debt collectors accepted my offers. The way they look at it is like this – “We either get half, or nothing”
• After 60 days I was up in the 680s... Couldn’t be happier. Then I did something that was not mentioned in the above subreddit..
• I signed up for a service that sends out letters written on your behalf demanding that they show proof and accuracy of the negative item on your credit report. Basically, you pay them a certain amount per month, and they send out attorney written letters to ALL credit reporting agencies, and debtors on your file, demanding that they prove they followed the law to the LETTER, and demand that if they cannot, then the record must be erased from my credit report. It’s basically a team of attornies and paralegals that work on behalf of their clients to remove delinquent and collections accounts from their credit reports.
• Less than half of the remaining collections could prove that they followed the process, so they removed the collections from my account.
• I then paid off the remaining 2 accounts (down from 17 accounts when I started this)
• My credit score as of yesterday from both Transunion and Equifax is now 723.
• I applied for a real credit card from Chase and was immediately approved for a credit card.
And that’s my story! TL;DR – Call all your debtors, negotiate the debts down. Get credit Karma, be religious about not going over 30% of credit card limit, get a secured credit card.
Again, thank you everyone on here who helped make this possible, I really wouldn’t have been able to do it without you, and I mean that. Thank you.
Edit: One HUGE THING I forgot to mention... I called into my auto loan company and asked them to remove some late payments that were on my report. I had about 4 late payments that were 30+ days, and 2 that were 60+ days. I asked them to remove some, and they did. Overnight my credit score went up 22 points.
Edit 2: WOW. Thanks everyone for the response. I have received many messages from people who we're in a similar experience as I was when I started this journey. Thank you so much for your comments and your messages. There are a couple of things I wanted to clear up however.
Some people have perceived this guide as "not ethical" in the way I removed accounts from my credit report.
I don't care. You don't have to follow my advice I'm just sharing what I did, and it worked for me. I hold no moral obligation to pay third party debt collectors mountains of money with their fees tacked in. I just played the game and I won. Simple as that. You don't have to agree with how I did it, I just wanted to share what I did.
Top Comment: Congrats on your success. It really is impressive. However, I would like to question/caution your line of thinking... every single one of these scum debt collectors accepted my offers What makes these people scum? It's debt that you admit you owe - something you would/could not pay off which was legitimate. You didn't mention in your post, but it doesn't sound like the collectors did anything shady on their part... If you had borrowed $100 from your grandma, forced her tell your mother since you didn't pay her back, and then had your mother ask you for the $100 - would you call your mother scum? Especially if you offered her $50 as a "take it or leave it" counter offer and and she accepted? This type of mentality that we as a society seem to have moved towards really bothers me. We should sympathize with people stuck in terrible situations (e.g. extreme unforeseen medical bills which couldn't reasonably be covered by an emergency fund), but as a culture we spend more than we have. Then we get mad when people ask for what they're rightfully due. Just something to think about. Congrats again. Edit: My comment seems to have caused quite a heated debate which has unfortunately turned South. I meant no disrespect to u/brokerstoker and truly admire his perseverance to do something about the situation. I simply wished to point out that all debt collectors aren't evil by nature, just as people in debt aren't always there of their own volition. It is important to realize that some people make poor financial decisions which deserve to have consequences while others are truly unfortunate.
I just received my credit score and it is bad (low 600s). How do I improve it and how long does it take to get to a good number?
Main Post:
I am 28 and after years of bad financial habits and practices I've come to realize I need to change. I will be graduating after this fall semester and moving to another state. I have heard that employers will sometimes check credit scores during application process and also that applying for apartments, a bad credit score can keep you from getting a decent place or job! How do I get my credit looking good fast or fastish... Thanks!
Top Comment:
I recommend signing up for creditkarma.com It's free. It gives you a breakdown for what components are hurting your score.
They provide an estimated credit score. I have found this score to generally be lower than the score I get when I have my credit run. I don't know if it's always low, or just low based on my particular situation. But the point is that the score they provide is just an estimate.
A few of your biggest factors are:
- Credit Card Utilization: the percentage of available credit card credit you owe. If you owe $900 and have a limit of $1,000, then you have 90% utilization. Ideally, you want to be between 1% and 20%. (0% is actually worse than 1%).
- Derogatory Marks: Liens, collections, etc. These hurt, and stay on a long time. Don't let your credit card go to collections.
- Payment history: Percentage of on-time payments. This stays on for 7 years, and counts all the monthly payments you've made on time during the past 7 years. Anything less than 100% will hurt your score. Anything less than 97% is really bad.
Credit score is 638. Looking for an honest assessment and recommendation
Main Post:
I worked in hospitality for 18 years where I had a very low income on paper. I've never had a credit card and the only details of credit I've had were two different cell phone plans. I recently got denied a car loan from a bank.
The other day I went to one of those low credit-no credit car lots and they wanted to put me in a car at 22% interest as a credit building tool. Yeah right.
I'm fortunate enough that my father is willing to buy a car and have me rent it for a few years while I build my credit. From what I was told at the lot, I could get a bank loan if my credit score was 700 and 750 is near perfect. What I am wondering is, how accurate is that statement and what is the best way to establish that credit needed in 1.5-2 years. Your help is much appreciated.
Edit:I've been doing sales for 1.5 years making 45k
Top Comment:
Something to keep in mind...
I work in credit, and deal with Equifax and TransUnion all day, every day. My job is to check people's credit reports, and we decide if they are eligible for credit from our company. Over the years we've had conversations with people who've been denied from us who call and tell us they have their credit report in front of them, and ask why they were denied. When discussing with them the reports we both have vs the one they have, one issue kept coming up: the credit score WE get is not the same as the one the consumer gets on their own personal report.
We contacted Equifax to ask about this consistent discrepancy, and their answer was: When a consumer pulls their own credit report, they receive a report that contains ~60% of the info that we, as creditors, receive when we pull the same report. The score we see is not the same as the one you'll see when you pull your own report. So, if the report you paid for from TU or Equifax is in the 630-ish range, you can bet the score the bank got was in the low 500s, and the one the car loan company got was even lower (since your score would likely have dropped several points from the bank's inquiry).
As creditors, we'll also get a longer trade history, more details about payments and balances of those trade lines, and a complete history of every credit attempt you've ever made from Day 1. Every lean or job application you've ever made is there, along with every address you've ever written down on any application, and any misspelling or re-arrangement of your name. Most of the information won't show on the report you paid for, and if it does, it'll only be the most recent, relevant information.
Also, imo, the car loan place probably took into serious consideration the fact that your bank (whom they would have seen you do your personal banking with) denied you for a loan, and went down the same string of logic we go down each time we deny someone in a similar scenario: If your bank, which is a company that has MUCH more collateral over you to capitalize on if you go bankrupt or try to disappear, doesn't trust you to have more debt, then the car loan place is certainly not going to hand over to you their ONLY collateral (the car), and hope you follow through on your payments. Your credit report must not display a faithful payment history, or shows the (probably large-ish) amount of debt you're holding, combined with your less-than-consistent income, and history of credit applications, which tells them you probably have had, or will have, issues managing your income. This might not be entirely true, but since the car dealership has no other information to base their decision off of, the outcome would be a denial.
As far as rebuilding your credit:
- Easiest thing to do: Stop applying for credit, for the next 2-3 years (or more, ideally). Each time someone does a hard inquiry on your report, you lose points to your score and their inquiry shows up on a log we all see. Sometimes your score will drop by 5-10 points, but I've seen scores drop 35-100 points from a single inquiry. Stick with your current cell and utilities company - new companies do an inquiry before extending you services. Avoid switching jobs as much as is possible - especially in sales and hospitality. Since you're working with cash and being trusted to be held accountable for it, you'll usually be required to give potential employers permission to check your credit report so your employers can determine you're not on the verge of bankruptcy and won't run off with their nightly deposit or petty cash to fund your financial issues at home. Shitty, but true. Avoid situations where your credit report is up for viewing.
- Lower your Credit Utilization %. If you have loans, credit cards, or other debts, keep the balances as low as possible at the end of the month by chipping away at them in chunks. Near-ish the end of each month, when your creditors report your balances to the credit companies, if the amount of credit you hold stays the same but the balances you carry drops, your credit utilization % will go down, and your score will go up consistently (and, speaking relatively, dramatically). So, pay off as big of a portion of your debt as you can for the end of the month. This way, when your bank tells Equifax/TU how much you owe them on the 28th-ish, Equifax will get a number lower than last month and their credit score algorithm will churn out something halfway decent for you. If you have to charge something to your debts, do it AFTER the 1st and pay it off before the 20th, as a safe benchmark date. All credit institutions operate a bit differently, but banks are pretty consistent about doing it at the end of the month when they charge you your fees.
(Although I'm not 100% certain, I'm fairly confident the Credit Utilization % is something only creditors see, since I've never seen it on my own credit reports, but it's easy math you can do yourself to find out what your debt looks like in summary.)
- Speaking of banks... Don't accept credit extensions, unless you can 100% absolutely NOT use them. Let me explain: Banks extend credit to customers already holding debt when they see these customers are consistently making payments, but also consistently holding a huge portion of that debt in the red. Banks will offer these people limit increases to their credit cards or lines of credit because banks are COMPANIES and their goal is to make money. The more debt you hold, the more interest they charge you, and the longer you're their customer. More customers means more interest, which means more money. If you're serious about increasing your credit eligibility, only accept credit extensions when you know you will not use them. Why? Because having access to more debt but not using it will lower your credit utilization (see above point), which is a very powerful tool to have when you're working to increase your score. You'll eventually want to get rid of some of that excess debt as your CU % gets lower and lower, but if you're running in the above 60%-ish range now, it's a good tool to have. Note: 60% CU is just my personal opinion, as a credit professional, not any real benchmark.
- And, lastly, pay your shit but pay it ON TIME. Never, ever, miss a due payment, even by just a few days. A payment to your Rogers/Bell bill even 24hours late will report as a late payment "Over 30 Days" on your trade lines, which we (creditors) see. Doesn't matter if you sent it by e-transfer 2 hours after midnight - it's still late. Don't miss ANY payments. Trades like cellphones, utilities, lines of credit, and low-interest credit cards are the credit lines we see most often as the culprits for bad credit scores and iffy credit reports. Consider: It's great that your bank gave you a loan/LoC for 5 grand, but the bank has all of your accounts in their palm and can (and do) hold your money hostage if they have CRA on their side. If creditors see that you can't even handle paying your $60-ish Rogers bill on time, your credit card where you're accruing a monthly interest of half of your payment amount, or your utilities where missing a payment would mean not having lights or hot water, why should we trust you'll pay for your luxuries, like a car? Pay your shit, every month, without a single slip-up. Creditors get as much as 2-3 years of payment history from TU (when available), and a summarized record of EVERY payment to that credit line from Equifax. Even one delayed payment in a 3-year record will negatively affect your score, and, as we all know from basic math of averages, negative factors carry more weight than positive ones.
TL;DR: A credit score is not the sole determiner of credit eligibility, but it's a strong factor, and the algorithm TU and Equifax have for determining credit scores is convoluted and sometimes doesn't make much sense. You can influence it a little, though, by actively and effectively managing your debts so that their existence works in your favour and shows you to be a responsible credit holder, as opposed to a lax one. Outlined 4 tips above.
How do you bounce back from a shitty (<500) credit score?
Main Post:
I have always been really bad with money, and over the past few years since 2nd year university, I made some really bad financial decisions. I racked up a lot in debt that I simply wasn't/couldn't paying, and eventually came to a point I couldn't pay any of them at all, to now I'm looking at killing off the last $1000 I owe.
However in the process I absolutely destroyed my credit, it's currently 492 at Equifax and 521 at Transunion.
I already tried applying for a new credit card and a small loan, both of which were declined because I have nobody to co-sign. How else can I build my credit back up? How long until I could reasonably expect to secure credit without a co-signer?
Thanks in advance!
Top Comment:
First pay off all remaining debts.
Next, make sure you pay all your bills on-time going forward (cell phone, utilities, etc).
Next, save up money in your chequing account, try to build a balance of a few thousand dollars.
Then approach your bank (the same one you have a balance in) and try to open up a credit card. If your credit is bad, banks will often still allow you to open a credit card, but will put restrictions that say you must maintain a specific bank balance at all times. So like, they'll give you $1000 credit, as long as you chequing account balance is always about $2000 kind of thing.
Then once you get your credit card, always, always, always pay it on time in full. And if you can't, you absolutely must at least pay some portion of it.
After a few years of good habits and paying on time, your credit will start to build up again.